Sunday, May 23, 2010

South Africa 2

The next day we woke up (I stayed with one of Philip’s friends named Kellen, so don't you worry) and went with his really fun Norwegian friends, Sigurd and Kristian, to a Saturday market. We had Greek gyros and empanadas and beer and enjoyed all the local goods/samples. p.s. In SA, the beer has very few ingredients and mostly all taste the same. Popular ones include: Carling, Castle, and Black Label. I can't remember which one I had that day. Anyway, afterward the four of us went to a wine tasting at a very quaint winery (I came to realize that wineries are basically on every corner and the biggest attraction to this part of South Africa). We tried many different wines, and I didn’t realize you can pour one out if you don’t want to finish it. So I drank all 7 or however-many samples they gave us. Of course, this resulted in slight tipsiness and extreme fascination with all the animals inhabiting the farm around the winery. There was a black pig, wallabies, little deer, a big turtle, a wiener dog named Pinot and a Great Dane named after another wine, and lots of chickens, geese, and ducks. Actually, I probably have this fascination anyway. That night we had some INCREDIBLE pizza (covered with avocado slices and sweet chili sauce on the side) at a bar called Bohemia and talked for a long time, enjoying the chilly evening. While eating, a little black kid asked us repeatedly for money in Afrikaans. We didn't oblige. The next day we went to a nature reserve called Jonkershoek - which was uphill biking there, but downhill the whole way home - and ended up at a lovely waterfall.





We ate that night at a place called Basic Bistro, and I got a greek salad, which consisted of a few tomatoes, some fresh mozzarella, and some basil leaves. Not totally filling, but Philip’s and Ryan’s pastas were amazing. The next was Philip’s birthday, so I made us an omelet, and he studied the whole day for his final that night. I went and got cake ingredients, including a Dunkin Hines mix, sweet and condensed milk, and Butterfinger bars. It was an expensive cake, but pretty good. Philip took his final, which completed his second semester of junior year, and we went out that night to a fancy restaurant with a bunch of friends (philip got a medium-rare rump steak, and I got a chicken, sun-dried tomato, and pineapple burger...it was one of the best meals during the trip), ordered good wine, then went to smoke hookah, and finally went out to a club for lots of dancing. We had cake that night. It was really good at 3 in the morning. I gave Philip his collage of pictures and other random presents the next day. That week we did a lot of hanging out because it rained constantly, going out at night, watching movies (a weird one and Where The Wild Things Are), and eating out at cool restaurants. We went to a few wineries, one called Spier that had cheetahs)...




We also went to an incredible brandy distillery called Van Ryn’s one day and left feeling guilty for ever having cheap brandy and coke. They taught us how to drink it like classy people…or “neat”, with specific chocolates on our tongue depending on the kind of brandy we’re drinking. We tried a 12 year old, 15 year old, and 20 year old brandy. They made me like brandy. The next day, Wednesday, I went with Philip to Kayamandi where he has volunteered with kids all semester, and I loved it. They served us dinner, and we talked about politics throughout dinner with a guy from Cuba and Philip’s other Kayamandi volunteers. I helped Philip pick out souvenirs for his family at the local market, which is full of “TRUE African gifts”. I also got some earrings for me. That weekend we went to Cape Town and stayed with two really cool couch surfers—Wim and Hanlie. They took us to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in their little 1960s Beatle, dropped us off, and Philip and I climbed Table Mountain. It was gorgeous. At the top we met a very old gentleman who had on what looked like a homemade blue sweater, sleeves too short, a white button down shirt underneath, and a fishing hat. He said he had climbed Table Mountain 1016 times, and I believed him. He looked like the man of the mountain. His skin was tan and leathery, and I really hope more people than just me and Philip know about this guy. Hopefully they do.



We hiked down to Cape's Bay - the beach - on the other side of Table Mountain and met up with three of Philip's friends, as well as Hanlie and Wim. They took me and Philip back to their house and served us bobotie for dinner, a traditional South African dish, which I now want to make for my roommates in Swansea. Philip and Hanlie got into a religious discussion over whiskey and wine. We left their lovely home the next day, and I really hope we get to see them again some day. I have decided that I have to come back to Africa soon. Next time I want to go to Victoria Falls, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and more parts of South Africa. The next day we went to the beach with Sophia and Joanna, 2 of Philip’s friends. Sophia has a car, and the trains decided to go on strike, and it was a perfect day for the beach. Side note: in Africa, the sun is so so so much hotter and so much brighter than other places. I managed to get a little tan.




That night Philip and I went to a delicious Lebanese restaurant for our last night together before I would leave the next day. We got gelato - orange chocolate was the best flavor - and walked back to his apt. The next day he borrowed the Norwegian guys' car and took me to Cape Town to the airport. I was so sad to leave, partly because I had a final the next day that I hadn’t studied for at all. The flight home was uneventful, and I watched It’s Complicated, Away We Go, and An Education on the way. All fantastic. Away We Go is one of my favorites. I arrived back to Swansea in one piece, exhausted. It is not possible to sleep more than two hours on a plane.

South Africa 1

It’s funny how sentimental music is for me. Actually, how sentimental everything is for me. A certain someone told me recently that I am the most nostalgic person they know. I think I miss things too much when they’re over. For instance, South Africa. We listened to a lot of new music while I was there, and now when I hear it, I want to go back. I mean, SA was cool in general, but I think the experiences with the people and the places and the music and the food and the cape town couch surfers and the hiking and the dancing has created a certain wistful desire to return.
On Thursday, the 6th, I took the train to London and then the tube to Heathrow. Just in case you ever have the intention to take the tube instead of the express bus from London Paddington to Heathrow airport, make sure you have an extra hour and a half to spare. It’s a long journey. But it’s also only £4.50 as opposed to the £13 bus. Just sayin. Checking in, going through security, and finding my gate were not problems at all, and the only unfortunate thing was that when I got to Paris, my plane was delayed for about an hour, and we sat on the plane for that long. The problem with that was I only had about two hours between my connecting flights once I arrived in Johannesburg to go to Cape Town. So it was sort of imperative that I didn’t have a delay. Anyway, the flight was long, and I read my book (The Reader) and watched Sherlock Holmes (excellent movie, by the way) and New Moon. In Jo-burg, it took forever to get OFF the plane, and I only had about an hour before my flight (so 30 minutes to go through security, get my bag, and re-check my bag before the 30-minute-bag-check-prior-to-departure would screw my chances of making my plane to Cape Town). I pushed my way through people, and asked about four very accommodating individuals in the customs line to let me cut in front of them. Basically I weaseled my way unfairly through about 150 people to the front of the line, got my passport stamped, and thankfully, my suitcase was one of the first ones I saw once I got to the baggage reclaim. I sprinted, yes sprinted, through the airport, and a South African guy asked me where I was going and if he could help me get to where I needed to be…if I paid him. I agreed under the stress and pressure, and he grabbed my suitcase and took off running beside me. He knew exactly where we were going and I got to my right counter 1 minute before the 30-minute limit. He took my bag, directed me to my gate, and I gave him £6 in coins. I don’t know why I gave him so much. It's ridiculous. He looked like he would have accepted £3. I was just really grateful. Anyway. On the plane, I talked to a Christian lady next to me who was from Arizona and a big fan of the new law in Arizona where immigrants now have to carry their papers with them in case the police get suspicious. I didn’t even know about the law (surprise, surprise) until this flight. I also didn’t decide if I agreed with it or not until I talked to Philip about it later and saw both sides. I don’t agree with it.
I arrived in Cape Town to see a sign with my name on it held up by Philip’s good friend Ryan. He greeted me very warmly and gave me a hug. Apparently, it was the first warm, sunny day on the western cape in a while (it's technically almost winter in SA, so it is often rainy and chilly all the time), so we enjoyed a happy drive to Stellenbosch, windows rolled down. Ryan told me all about the townships around the area and a little about South African history. He and I got along immediately, but I feel like I, being myself, let on to my extreme ignorance to most major historical/political/common knowledge events in the world, and he may or may not think I’m an idiot. It’s ok. I cleaned up a bit at Philip’s little apartment, even shaving my legs with lotion because I wanted to not seem like I had been on a plane for 15 hours. He got in and we hugged for a long time, and I couldn’t look at him directly for a moment because it was so surreal and all I really wanted to do was hug him. We talked for awhile, I met his girl friends, we got a ride to town, and walked around the city in the sun. We ate gelato and mostly just hung out before going to a friend’s 21st birthday party that night at a bar in town. It was decade themed, but I both had not brought a wardrobe for such an event and didn’t know everyone well enough to deck out in my finest. It was a fun night, but it took me awhile to open up and chill and be fun. We had a few drinks and went dancing at Catwalk (a club) and then chilled at Philip’s. End of day 1.

"Oh! 'Recently'..."

I suppose I’ve become a bit of a slacker. And when I say bit, I mean lot. Lot of a slacker. I think I feel like the only time I should write is when I have something extremely intellectual/existential to say OR if I’ve been on some major trip. Hence me writing now, because I went to South Africa. I kind of respect Philip’s idea though, because he writes every other day or so and keeps people updated about what’s going on on a regular basis. I don’t really do that, but it’s a good idea. Anyway. So after I got back from my spring break travels, life slowed down tremendously, as it is wont to do in Swansea. I worked a couple times a week, which I so enjoy. There’s some sort of rhythm to grinding espresso, tamping it firmly, pulling a shot, and foaming milk. At around the 3rd latte order, you feel like you should give that rhythm a name—sort of like a runner’s high, except a barista’s high. I love it. I love the routine. I think I also love the exchange rate between the £ and the $ and how I feel like I make bank every time I work (I don’t. But when you’re down to an embarrassing amount of money in your bank account, very small amounts of income feel quite large.) Perhaps there’s also a thrill in the realization that I’m doing something illegal because I do not have a work visa, I’m not extremely proficient at understanding British money, and I get paid under the table. That’s enough about work. Amidst the slow pace of life and work, I watched several movies, including Fantastic Mr. Fox, The Last Song, Julie and Julia (with Hope when she came to visit me in Swansea), and I can’t remember what else. I am writing this on the beach, because I am finished with finals, and it is 75 degrees and unbelievably sunny. As I speak, there are two small boys running around stark naked with orange ball caps on, accompanied by their fully clothed daddy. Confession. Sometimes I wish the human race would disappear for maybe a day, and during that time, I would visit rare places and do this without clothes. Is that weird? I think some things would be so much more fun if clothes were not mandatory. Moving on…
About a week before I left for South Africa, Hope and I ventured to Oxford, England. Side note: I have learned sort of to defeat the train system. If you buy a ticket to one place and then buy a separate ticket from that place to your intended destination, it’s usually much cheaper to split it up. The one place I haven’t figured out is trains to London. Splitting it up doesn’t usually matter. Which is sort of my dilemma now trying to get back to London cheaply at the end of this week in order to fly out on June 1st.
Anyway, at Oxford, I met up with Hope early in the morning, and despite the rain that insisted on falling all day, we were so excited to see each other. She is really one of the greatest girls ever, and I’m so glad we have become friends while studying abroad. We went to the Eagle and Child, where C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien met often with their group of friends, which they nicknamed the "Inklings". They both taught at Oxford. Lunch was good, and Hope and I ate with her friends from Prague. Then we walked around visiting cool shops, taking pictures, seeing the important sites, like Christ Church (the inspiration for Hogwarts in Harry Potter movies) and searching for C.S. Lewis’s grave. We found it.




After buying a large comfy Oxford sweatshirt, my train was due to leave, so I headed back to Swansea. That week I wrote my final story for my creative writing class, and it was not my best work. I got a B on it, so I think my professor wasn’t so impressed either. He did say however, “You have a natural, very appealing flair to your writing that I really like.” He thought this story was too flat though, and that I should find an area of writing that better “suited my talent”. Teachers don’t really compliment my work ever, so hearing that he likes the way I write was very encouraging. It is something I’ve done since I was a kid, after all. On Thursday, I walked around campus with my ginormous suitcase, turning in final papers and making sure my library books were turned in. Then I headed to eat lunch with Melanie before getting on a train to Heathrow airport. Melanie left two days after me, so a final jacket potato with tuna at Café Olé was just the sort of goodbye we needed…